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Pythium is a common root infection in poinsettias. The following is more information on this disease from the University of Maryland.
Pythium root rot is one of the most problematic diseases on poinsettias throughout the crop production cycle. The pathogen is really a number of species with different temperature requirements, so growers can see Pythium problems regardless of the season. Sanitation is critical to help reduce Pythium problems – the fungus-like pathogen is commonly associated with soil, dirty pots and untreated pond water. At this point in the poinsettia crop, Pythium can infect roots damaged from water stress or high soluble salts from too much fertilizer. Look for watersoaked, brown roots with vascular tissue intact (commonly called “rat-tailing”) as evidence of Pythium root rot infection. Infected plants may be smaller in size, with off-color leaves, and in extreme cases may show wilt symptoms even though the potting medium is moist. Plants with severe root rot should be discarded. Soil drench application of fungicides may be needed to protect uninfected plants against Pythium root rot. Products effective in managing this disease include FenStop (fenamidone), Banol (propamacarb), Banrot (etridiazole + thiophanate-methyl), Truban or Terrazole (etridiazole) and Subdue Maxx (mefenoxam). Some Pythium strains may be insensitive to Subdue Maxx. It is always a good idea to rotate products with different active ingredients to avoid resistance in Pythium populations.
Information from the current edition of the Greenhouse TPM/IPM Bi-Weekly Report from the Central Maryland Research and Education Center, University of Maryland Extension http://www.ipmnet.umd.edu/09Nov13G.pdf
30 Mayıs 2012 Çarşamba
Greenhouse - Cloudy Weather and Calcium on Poinsettias
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The rainy weather for the last couple of weeks is making it tough for poinsettias to pull up calcium this fall. If you don’t get adequate uptake of calcium then you are likely to see bract edge burn. Many growers are making bi-weekly applications of calcium chloride to get the calcium into the foliage and bracts. The following is a chart from Paul Ecke Ranch on rates of
calcium applications.
Click on chart for a larger version in a new window.
Information from the November 13, 2009 edition of the Greenhouse TPM/IPM Bi-Weekly Report from the Central Maryland Research and Education Center, University of Maryland Extension.
calcium applications.
Click on chart for a larger version in a new window.
Information from the November 13, 2009 edition of the Greenhouse TPM/IPM Bi-Weekly Report from the Central Maryland Research and Education Center, University of Maryland Extension.
Greenhouse - Poinsettia Leaf Distortion
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Leaf disortion is a common problem on poinsettias. The following is more information.
Leaf distortion
This disorder most often occurs in the early stages of the crop. Plants develop distorted or cupped leaves. Most poinsettias will outgrow this condition, but shoots with extreme distortion may not improve. It is unclear what causes this disorder. Some distorted leaves are very symptomatic of molybdenum deficiency in other crops, and some research studies have shown that a lack of this element early in the life of the plant can result in such leaf malformations. There have been reports that deformities occurred on some plants even when molybdenum had never been deficient, so other factors could also be responsible. Mechanical injury to very young leaves can cause leaf distortion. Wind, water stress, and insects (thrips) are also a few ways such injury could occur. Rapid changes in humidity, as what occurs early in the morning when the vent fans come on, can lead to an accumulation of salts along the leaf margins and veins - resulting in leaf injury. Leaf distortion becomes apparent as these injured leaves grow and expand.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Leaf distortion
This disorder most often occurs in the early stages of the crop. Plants develop distorted or cupped leaves. Most poinsettias will outgrow this condition, but shoots with extreme distortion may not improve. It is unclear what causes this disorder. Some distorted leaves are very symptomatic of molybdenum deficiency in other crops, and some research studies have shown that a lack of this element early in the life of the plant can result in such leaf malformations. There have been reports that deformities occurred on some plants even when molybdenum had never been deficient, so other factors could also be responsible. Mechanical injury to very young leaves can cause leaf distortion. Wind, water stress, and insects (thrips) are also a few ways such injury could occur. Rapid changes in humidity, as what occurs early in the morning when the vent fans come on, can lead to an accumulation of salts along the leaf margins and veins - resulting in leaf injury. Leaf distortion becomes apparent as these injured leaves grow and expand.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Greenhouse - Poinsettia Bract Splitting
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The following is information on the bract splitting disorder of poinsettias.
Bract Splitting
The splitting disorder was first encountered with the variety 'Paul Mikkelsen', and it has been a problem with some other varieties since them. It can occur on stock plants or the finishing plants. It is especially frequent on stock plants if the shoots become long, with numerous leaves, before a pinch or removal of a cutting is made. It can occur even when the daylength is too long for floral initiation, but a floral primordium is produced and is then surrounded by lateral vegetative shoots. Splitting in stock plants is almost like an uncontrolled pinch, and growers should be wary of cuttings taken from such shoots. Cuttings taken early in the propagation season and grown too long as single-stem plants are more likely to split than those taken later.
Splitting can occur on plants which are to be sold as flowering plants, and can make the plants unacceptable. Again, this is more likely to occur on plants which are grown single-stem with a mature main axis, compared to plants of the same variety which are grown as pinched plants, with the younger lateral shoots.
Several ways have been recommended to reduce the changes of splitting. These methods are:
1. Select varieties which are known to be relatively free from splitting. (Unfortunately some of the longest lasting varieties and those that withstand shipping and handling the best are the ones most subject to splitting.)
2. Apply lights (extend the daylength or interrupt the dark period) to stock plants until mid-May, to keep plants vegetative.
3. Pinch shoots on stock plants regularly, so only short, young shoots are produced.
4. Try to avoid taking cuttings from the interior portions on the bench, where light intensity is low.
5. Do not propagate cuttings early for single-stem plant production.
6. If the variety is highly susceptible to splitting, apply lights until mid-September on finishing plants to make certain the shoots remain in the vegetative stage.
7. Make certain the dark period is not interrupted by lights, once initiation is desired, or splitting can be induced.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Bract Splitting
The splitting disorder was first encountered with the variety 'Paul Mikkelsen', and it has been a problem with some other varieties since them. It can occur on stock plants or the finishing plants. It is especially frequent on stock plants if the shoots become long, with numerous leaves, before a pinch or removal of a cutting is made. It can occur even when the daylength is too long for floral initiation, but a floral primordium is produced and is then surrounded by lateral vegetative shoots. Splitting in stock plants is almost like an uncontrolled pinch, and growers should be wary of cuttings taken from such shoots. Cuttings taken early in the propagation season and grown too long as single-stem plants are more likely to split than those taken later.
Splitting can occur on plants which are to be sold as flowering plants, and can make the plants unacceptable. Again, this is more likely to occur on plants which are grown single-stem with a mature main axis, compared to plants of the same variety which are grown as pinched plants, with the younger lateral shoots.
Several ways have been recommended to reduce the changes of splitting. These methods are:
1. Select varieties which are known to be relatively free from splitting. (Unfortunately some of the longest lasting varieties and those that withstand shipping and handling the best are the ones most subject to splitting.)
2. Apply lights (extend the daylength or interrupt the dark period) to stock plants until mid-May, to keep plants vegetative.
3. Pinch shoots on stock plants regularly, so only short, young shoots are produced.
4. Try to avoid taking cuttings from the interior portions on the bench, where light intensity is low.
5. Do not propagate cuttings early for single-stem plant production.
6. If the variety is highly susceptible to splitting, apply lights until mid-September on finishing plants to make certain the shoots remain in the vegetative stage.
7. Make certain the dark period is not interrupted by lights, once initiation is desired, or splitting can be induced.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Landscape and Turf - Don't Forget Soil Sampling Before the Ground Freezes
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The following is a reminder to take soil samples this fall if you have not yet done so.
The 2009 growing season is wrapping up, and landscaping chores mostly involve “cleaning up”. While you’re raking leaves, begin thinking about what tasks you can do now that can help you prepare for next season. One job you can do before the ground freezes is to take soil samples for testing. The nutrient levels that are analyzed for a fertility test will not change substantially between now and next March, and so the results and recommendations will allow you to learn what soil amendments you need to optimize soil fertility, plan your work efforts, and make your purchases well in advance.
Testing now also provides the advantage of rapid response time from the soil testing lab, since the sample load is relatively low. Often, landscapers may not think of soil testing until the weather warms up next spring, and they’ll all send their samples at the same time, wanting results in a hurry. However, this is the busiest time for most soil testing labs and turnaround time can be slow. Make soil testing a part of your late fall/winter garden routine to be better prepared and make next spring less hectic. Remember: soil testing helps you use your hard-earned dollars wisely by providing recommendations for the most appropriate fertilizer or amendment. And in addition to providing optimum conditions for your plants, proper fertilization prevents mis-use of nutrients that can cause environmental degradation. Always practice good landscape hygiene, cleaning up fertilizer granules, soil, grass clippings, and other plant detritus from impervious surfaces. Only water should be going into those storm sewers! So get back to those fall clean-up chores. For information on submitting soil samples, contact your County Extension office (Newark, Dover, or Georgetown).
Adapted from "It’s a Good Time to Test Your Soil!" in the November 12, 2009 edition of the
Plant & Pest Advisory, Landscape, Nursery & Turf Edition, A Rutgers Cooperative Extension Publication http://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/plantandpestadvisory/2009/ln111209.pdf
The 2009 growing season is wrapping up, and landscaping chores mostly involve “cleaning up”. While you’re raking leaves, begin thinking about what tasks you can do now that can help you prepare for next season. One job you can do before the ground freezes is to take soil samples for testing. The nutrient levels that are analyzed for a fertility test will not change substantially between now and next March, and so the results and recommendations will allow you to learn what soil amendments you need to optimize soil fertility, plan your work efforts, and make your purchases well in advance.
Testing now also provides the advantage of rapid response time from the soil testing lab, since the sample load is relatively low. Often, landscapers may not think of soil testing until the weather warms up next spring, and they’ll all send their samples at the same time, wanting results in a hurry. However, this is the busiest time for most soil testing labs and turnaround time can be slow. Make soil testing a part of your late fall/winter garden routine to be better prepared and make next spring less hectic. Remember: soil testing helps you use your hard-earned dollars wisely by providing recommendations for the most appropriate fertilizer or amendment. And in addition to providing optimum conditions for your plants, proper fertilization prevents mis-use of nutrients that can cause environmental degradation. Always practice good landscape hygiene, cleaning up fertilizer granules, soil, grass clippings, and other plant detritus from impervious surfaces. Only water should be going into those storm sewers! So get back to those fall clean-up chores. For information on submitting soil samples, contact your County Extension office (Newark, Dover, or Georgetown).
Adapted from "It’s a Good Time to Test Your Soil!" in the November 12, 2009 edition of the
Plant & Pest Advisory, Landscape, Nursery & Turf Edition, A Rutgers Cooperative Extension Publication http://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/plantandpestadvisory/2009/ln111209.pdf
23 Mayıs 2012 Çarşamba
Greenhouse - Cold Weather and Poinsettias
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The following are some cold temperature effects on poinsettias.
Cool temperatures can delay initiation and development of flower parts. The impact of cool temperatures can readily be seen in a greenhouse where temperature control is not uniform and there are cold and hot areas within the greenhouse. Adequate heating facilities and horizontal air flow fans can reduce this variability.
Sales and delivery of plants during periods of extremely cold temperatures can be difficult because poinsettia bracts can be severely damaged by temperatures below 50°F. Red bracts develop a blue to a silver-white color and the extent of discoloration is dependent on length of exposure to such chilling temperatures. In some areas of the country, retail outlets are not accustomed to protecting poinsettias from chilling injury. Sleeving will help prevent chilling injury.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Cool temperatures can delay initiation and development of flower parts. The impact of cool temperatures can readily be seen in a greenhouse where temperature control is not uniform and there are cold and hot areas within the greenhouse. Adequate heating facilities and horizontal air flow fans can reduce this variability.
Sales and delivery of plants during periods of extremely cold temperatures can be difficult because poinsettia bracts can be severely damaged by temperatures below 50°F. Red bracts develop a blue to a silver-white color and the extent of discoloration is dependent on length of exposure to such chilling temperatures. In some areas of the country, retail outlets are not accustomed to protecting poinsettias from chilling injury. Sleeving will help prevent chilling injury.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Greenhouse - Poinsettia Wilting
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The following are some causes for wilting in poinsettias
Wilting/Epinasty in Poinsettia
The most common cause of wilting is a lack of water, and application of water should correct the problem. If plants remain wilted, the root systems should be inspected to determine if root injury has occurred because of excess soluble salts, root rot pathogens, or fungus gnat larvae. Growing medium testing laboratories and plant disease and insect clinics should be utilized for proper identification of the reasons for the wilting.
Flowering plants which have been sleeved and shipped to the retail outlet might show symptoms of wilting when sleeves are removed and the plants have been in the retail outlet for a couple of hours. The first response is for the florist or store personnel to apply water, but moisture might not be lacking. This wilting is referred to as epinasty. Varieties differ greatly in their susceptibility to wilting. Mechanical injury or bending of leaves during sleeving can increase the amount of ethylene being produced by the plant. Increased levels of ethylene can lead to droopy plants. Length of time in the sleeves also has an impact on the extent of the epinasty. Growers should avoid rough handling of the plants during sleeving and the amount of time that the plants stay in sleeves should be minimized.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Wilting/Epinasty in Poinsettia
The most common cause of wilting is a lack of water, and application of water should correct the problem. If plants remain wilted, the root systems should be inspected to determine if root injury has occurred because of excess soluble salts, root rot pathogens, or fungus gnat larvae. Growing medium testing laboratories and plant disease and insect clinics should be utilized for proper identification of the reasons for the wilting.
Flowering plants which have been sleeved and shipped to the retail outlet might show symptoms of wilting when sleeves are removed and the plants have been in the retail outlet for a couple of hours. The first response is for the florist or store personnel to apply water, but moisture might not be lacking. This wilting is referred to as epinasty. Varieties differ greatly in their susceptibility to wilting. Mechanical injury or bending of leaves during sleeving can increase the amount of ethylene being produced by the plant. Increased levels of ethylene can lead to droopy plants. Length of time in the sleeves also has an impact on the extent of the epinasty. Growers should avoid rough handling of the plants during sleeving and the amount of time that the plants stay in sleeves should be minimized.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Greenhouse - "Rabbit Tracks" on Poinsettia
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The following is information on the "rabbit track" disorder of poinsettia bracts.
Bilateral bract spots (Rabbit Tracks)
Many reasons have been proposed for this disorder, but the exact cause is still unknown. These spots, located on either side of the midrib of the bracts in late November and early December seem to occur more often on some varieties than on others. The disorder has been observed under every type of greenhouse covering, over a wide temperature range, and with several different fertilization programs and nutrient levels. High temperature and high nitrogen levels have been suspected as causes, but then the disorder will occur where neither of these conditions prevailed. Plants have been exposed to cool and warm air movements over the bracts and to high humidities, trying to produce rabbit tracks, but such experiments have usually failed. No pathogen or other pest has been found to be responsible for the spotting.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Bilateral bract spots (Rabbit Tracks)
Many reasons have been proposed for this disorder, but the exact cause is still unknown. These spots, located on either side of the midrib of the bracts in late November and early December seem to occur more often on some varieties than on others. The disorder has been observed under every type of greenhouse covering, over a wide temperature range, and with several different fertilization programs and nutrient levels. High temperature and high nitrogen levels have been suspected as causes, but then the disorder will occur where neither of these conditions prevailed. Plants have been exposed to cool and warm air movements over the bracts and to high humidities, trying to produce rabbit tracks, but such experiments have usually failed. No pathogen or other pest has been found to be responsible for the spotting.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Landscape - Assessing Potential for Winter Storm Damage to Trees
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With fall progressing, it brings to mind concerns about potential storm damage to trees. Vicious winds and ice storms, or heavy wet snow, have caused severe tree losses and property damage in the past. The following are some considerations in assessing potential for winter storm damage to trees.
It's often difficult to predict what will happen to trees in landscapes during storms. Healthy trees with no apparent potential problems can drop limbs or fall entirely during unusual weather. But the more common hazards from tree damage occur with trees that are unhealthy or stressed. If a tree has dropped big branches, or shows signs of interior rot when a branch falls, it definitely should be checked.
If a tree has a likelihood of falling, and has a target to hit if it falls, it may be considered a hazard tree.
Checklist for tree hazards:
1) Is there a history of trees falling near your home during bad storms?
2) Do certain trees look unhealthy compared to their neighbors?
3) Has there been construction activity near your trees in recent months or years?
4) Has nearby logging changed the growing conditions and exposed remaining trees to less shade, or stressed them in other ways?
Falling trees:
One very common reason for a tree to fall is because of some type of root problem. Consulting a qualified tree care professional makes good sense if you suspect the presence of a root disease, or if there have been many falling trees in your immediate neighborhood.
Roots that have decayed from fungi may no longer adequately anchor a tree. High winds combined with saturated ground may cause tree failure when root disease has developed.
Unfortunately, finding no signs of root diseases does not mean they are not present. However, close inspections of roots and trunks of fallen trees or drilling suspect trees to look for interior decay can be done by Certified Arborists and/or urban foresters that are familiar with root rots. Professional hazard evaluations are highly recommended for trees located near those that have died, fallen or appear to be dying.
Generally, roots aren't removed when hazard trees are cut down. If a root rot disease has been present, be certain not to replant susceptible trees in the same area.
Tree fall can also be caused by factors other than root rots. Trees may be rocked over by wind when soils are saturated with water. So in addition to root rot problems, there will be other possibilities checked by arborists when evaluating whether a tree is a hazard.
Checking trees for healthy appearance:
If you were to glance around at the trees in a neighborhood, the crowns will range from those with lush, full, healthy appearing foliage to those that have sparse, poor colored foliage. The crown is the part of the tree at the top, the branches that you see silhouetted against sky. The branch pattern and foliage pattern at the top of the tree will be the first area to show symptoms of tree disease. Trees that
With deciduous trees (those that drop their leaves in fall), such as maples, check for crown health when the trees still have all their summer leaves, before leaves begin to drop. The apparent thinning of leaf and twig health at the top of a deciduous tree is much more difficult to detect during and after leaf fall.
Often, a tree in distress will leaf out later than usual in the spring and have smaller leaves than are common. It may also set a very large, bountiful crop of seeds, though seed set needs to be looked at along with other factors in the tree.
Once a large tree begins to show severe symptoms, the situation isn't reversible. There generally are no cures for conifer trees that have root problems or that appear to be dying. Get advice from a qualified professional arborist.
Adapted from "Checking Tree Safety Before Winter Storms" by Mary Robson (Ret.), Area Extension Agent Regional Garden Column October 3, 1999, Washington State University.
It's often difficult to predict what will happen to trees in landscapes during storms. Healthy trees with no apparent potential problems can drop limbs or fall entirely during unusual weather. But the more common hazards from tree damage occur with trees that are unhealthy or stressed. If a tree has dropped big branches, or shows signs of interior rot when a branch falls, it definitely should be checked.
If a tree has a likelihood of falling, and has a target to hit if it falls, it may be considered a hazard tree.
Checklist for tree hazards:
1) Is there a history of trees falling near your home during bad storms?
2) Do certain trees look unhealthy compared to their neighbors?
3) Has there been construction activity near your trees in recent months or years?
4) Has nearby logging changed the growing conditions and exposed remaining trees to less shade, or stressed them in other ways?
Falling trees:
One very common reason for a tree to fall is because of some type of root problem. Consulting a qualified tree care professional makes good sense if you suspect the presence of a root disease, or if there have been many falling trees in your immediate neighborhood.
Roots that have decayed from fungi may no longer adequately anchor a tree. High winds combined with saturated ground may cause tree failure when root disease has developed.
Unfortunately, finding no signs of root diseases does not mean they are not present. However, close inspections of roots and trunks of fallen trees or drilling suspect trees to look for interior decay can be done by Certified Arborists and/or urban foresters that are familiar with root rots. Professional hazard evaluations are highly recommended for trees located near those that have died, fallen or appear to be dying.
Generally, roots aren't removed when hazard trees are cut down. If a root rot disease has been present, be certain not to replant susceptible trees in the same area.
Tree fall can also be caused by factors other than root rots. Trees may be rocked over by wind when soils are saturated with water. So in addition to root rot problems, there will be other possibilities checked by arborists when evaluating whether a tree is a hazard.
Checking trees for healthy appearance:
If you were to glance around at the trees in a neighborhood, the crowns will range from those with lush, full, healthy appearing foliage to those that have sparse, poor colored foliage. The crown is the part of the tree at the top, the branches that you see silhouetted against sky. The branch pattern and foliage pattern at the top of the tree will be the first area to show symptoms of tree disease. Trees that
With deciduous trees (those that drop their leaves in fall), such as maples, check for crown health when the trees still have all their summer leaves, before leaves begin to drop. The apparent thinning of leaf and twig health at the top of a deciduous tree is much more difficult to detect during and after leaf fall.
Often, a tree in distress will leaf out later than usual in the spring and have smaller leaves than are common. It may also set a very large, bountiful crop of seeds, though seed set needs to be looked at along with other factors in the tree.
Once a large tree begins to show severe symptoms, the situation isn't reversible. There generally are no cures for conifer trees that have root problems or that appear to be dying. Get advice from a qualified professional arborist.
Adapted from "Checking Tree Safety Before Winter Storms" by Mary Robson (Ret.), Area Extension Agent Regional Garden Column October 3, 1999, Washington State University.
Landscape and Turf - Don't Forget Soil Sampling Before the Ground Freezes
To contact us Click HERE
The following is a reminder to take soil samples this fall if you have not yet done so.
The 2009 growing season is wrapping up, and landscaping chores mostly involve “cleaning up”. While you’re raking leaves, begin thinking about what tasks you can do now that can help you prepare for next season. One job you can do before the ground freezes is to take soil samples for testing. The nutrient levels that are analyzed for a fertility test will not change substantially between now and next March, and so the results and recommendations will allow you to learn what soil amendments you need to optimize soil fertility, plan your work efforts, and make your purchases well in advance.
Testing now also provides the advantage of rapid response time from the soil testing lab, since the sample load is relatively low. Often, landscapers may not think of soil testing until the weather warms up next spring, and they’ll all send their samples at the same time, wanting results in a hurry. However, this is the busiest time for most soil testing labs and turnaround time can be slow. Make soil testing a part of your late fall/winter garden routine to be better prepared and make next spring less hectic. Remember: soil testing helps you use your hard-earned dollars wisely by providing recommendations for the most appropriate fertilizer or amendment. And in addition to providing optimum conditions for your plants, proper fertilization prevents mis-use of nutrients that can cause environmental degradation. Always practice good landscape hygiene, cleaning up fertilizer granules, soil, grass clippings, and other plant detritus from impervious surfaces. Only water should be going into those storm sewers! So get back to those fall clean-up chores. For information on submitting soil samples, contact your County Extension office (Newark, Dover, or Georgetown).
Adapted from "It’s a Good Time to Test Your Soil!" in the November 12, 2009 edition of the
Plant & Pest Advisory, Landscape, Nursery & Turf Edition, A Rutgers Cooperative Extension Publication http://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/plantandpestadvisory/2009/ln111209.pdf
The 2009 growing season is wrapping up, and landscaping chores mostly involve “cleaning up”. While you’re raking leaves, begin thinking about what tasks you can do now that can help you prepare for next season. One job you can do before the ground freezes is to take soil samples for testing. The nutrient levels that are analyzed for a fertility test will not change substantially between now and next March, and so the results and recommendations will allow you to learn what soil amendments you need to optimize soil fertility, plan your work efforts, and make your purchases well in advance.
Testing now also provides the advantage of rapid response time from the soil testing lab, since the sample load is relatively low. Often, landscapers may not think of soil testing until the weather warms up next spring, and they’ll all send their samples at the same time, wanting results in a hurry. However, this is the busiest time for most soil testing labs and turnaround time can be slow. Make soil testing a part of your late fall/winter garden routine to be better prepared and make next spring less hectic. Remember: soil testing helps you use your hard-earned dollars wisely by providing recommendations for the most appropriate fertilizer or amendment. And in addition to providing optimum conditions for your plants, proper fertilization prevents mis-use of nutrients that can cause environmental degradation. Always practice good landscape hygiene, cleaning up fertilizer granules, soil, grass clippings, and other plant detritus from impervious surfaces. Only water should be going into those storm sewers! So get back to those fall clean-up chores. For information on submitting soil samples, contact your County Extension office (Newark, Dover, or Georgetown).
Adapted from "It’s a Good Time to Test Your Soil!" in the November 12, 2009 edition of the
Plant & Pest Advisory, Landscape, Nursery & Turf Edition, A Rutgers Cooperative Extension Publication http://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/plantandpestadvisory/2009/ln111209.pdf
17 Mayıs 2012 Perşembe
Greenhouse - Bract Edge Burn on Poinsettia
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The following is information on bract edge burn on poinsettias.
Bract necrosis/Bract Edge Burn
This disorder, which can be recognized by brown bract margins and eventual internal necrosis, and also referred to as bract burn occurs most frequently on the varieties 'Gutbier V-14 Glory' and 'Supjibi'. Generous fertilizer applications, particularly ammonium sources of nitrogen, continued into the late stages of the season, seem to increase the likelihood of bract burn. Research also has shown increased incidence of the problem when calcium was deficient. Excess soluble salts in the growing substrate causing root injury, reduced water absorption or stress from inadequate or excessive irrigation, damage from pesticides or pollutants, and high relative humidity are also associated with the disorder. Perhaps the greatest damage caused by bract necrosis in the increased chance for Botrytis infection of the damaged tissue, and then the need to control this persistent disease.
The following suggestions have been made:
1) Reduce fertilizer rates and frequencies as the crop matures.
2) Primarily use nitrate nitrogen, rather than fertilizer high in ammoniacal nitrogen.
3) Apply adequate amounts of calcium (calcium levels of 0.5% or less in the leaves are considered to be deficient). Consider supplemental calcium sprays (see: Calcium).
4) Do not use excessive amounts of slow-release forms of fertilizer, as nutrients cannot be withheld late in the season.
5) Avoid unnecessary irrigation which can result in soft bracts.
6) Try to avoid high relative humidity. This can be achieved by ventilating and heating late in the afternoon to remove moisture from the greenhouse atmosphere. A policy of not irrigating in the afternoon can also be helpful. Steps taken to reduce relative humidity will not only reduce the incidence of bract necrosis, but will also help control Botrytis if it does occur.
7)Use approved fungicides for Botrytis prevention or control.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Bract necrosis/Bract Edge Burn
This disorder, which can be recognized by brown bract margins and eventual internal necrosis, and also referred to as bract burn occurs most frequently on the varieties 'Gutbier V-14 Glory' and 'Supjibi'. Generous fertilizer applications, particularly ammonium sources of nitrogen, continued into the late stages of the season, seem to increase the likelihood of bract burn. Research also has shown increased incidence of the problem when calcium was deficient. Excess soluble salts in the growing substrate causing root injury, reduced water absorption or stress from inadequate or excessive irrigation, damage from pesticides or pollutants, and high relative humidity are also associated with the disorder. Perhaps the greatest damage caused by bract necrosis in the increased chance for Botrytis infection of the damaged tissue, and then the need to control this persistent disease.
The following suggestions have been made:
1) Reduce fertilizer rates and frequencies as the crop matures.
2) Primarily use nitrate nitrogen, rather than fertilizer high in ammoniacal nitrogen.
3) Apply adequate amounts of calcium (calcium levels of 0.5% or less in the leaves are considered to be deficient). Consider supplemental calcium sprays (see: Calcium).
4) Do not use excessive amounts of slow-release forms of fertilizer, as nutrients cannot be withheld late in the season.
5) Avoid unnecessary irrigation which can result in soft bracts.
6) Try to avoid high relative humidity. This can be achieved by ventilating and heating late in the afternoon to remove moisture from the greenhouse atmosphere. A policy of not irrigating in the afternoon can also be helpful. Steps taken to reduce relative humidity will not only reduce the incidence of bract necrosis, but will also help control Botrytis if it does occur.
7)Use approved fungicides for Botrytis prevention or control.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Landscape and Nursery - Some Sedge Species for Delaware
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The following are some sedge species to consider for Delaware.
Carex dolichostachya 'Kaga-nishiki', gold fountain sedge
Description: Gold fountain sedge prefers part shade to shade conditions and needs moist soil. It is 10-14" in height and has arching narrow green leaves edged in golden-yellow. This is a low maintenance plant.
Carex flaccosperma, thin fruit sedge
Description: This native plant has wide adaptation and will thrive in sun to shade conditions but needs constant moisture (do not let dry out. It is 8-10" in height, remains evergreen, and has attractive clumps of glass-like blue-green leaves.
Carex morrowii 'Silver Sceptre', Japanese sedge
Description: Japanese sedge prefers part shade to shaded conditions but is adapted to a wide range of soil moistures from dry to moist. One of the benefits of this sedge is that tolerates full sun and dry, drought conditions. It is 12" in height. Japanese sedge has narrow leaves with white margin.
Carex muskingumensis 'Little Midge', dwarf palm sedge
Description: This native plant needs moist soil conditions and is adapted to part shade or shaded conditions. It is 12-15" in height. It is fine textured and compact and is a great native substitute for dwarf bamboo.
Carex oshimensis 'Evergold' sedge
Description: This sedge requires part shade to shaded conditions and needs constant moisture and should not be let to dry out. It is 8-12" in height. This sedge has arching variegated yellow and green leaves and is an excellent groundcover that suppresses weeds.
Carex tenuiculmis 'Cappuccino', New Zealand hair sedge
Description: This sedge does well in sun to part shade in moist soils. It is 12-15" in height. New Zealand hair sedge has chocolate colored foliage and is great as an accent plant or in pots. To avoid winter damage plant this sedge in a protected site.
Carex dolichostachya 'Kaga-nishiki', gold fountain sedge
Description: Gold fountain sedge prefers part shade to shade conditions and needs moist soil. It is 10-14" in height and has arching narrow green leaves edged in golden-yellow. This is a low maintenance plant.
Carex flaccosperma, thin fruit sedge
Description: This native plant has wide adaptation and will thrive in sun to shade conditions but needs constant moisture (do not let dry out. It is 8-10" in height, remains evergreen, and has attractive clumps of glass-like blue-green leaves.
Carex morrowii 'Silver Sceptre', Japanese sedge
Description: Japanese sedge prefers part shade to shaded conditions but is adapted to a wide range of soil moistures from dry to moist. One of the benefits of this sedge is that tolerates full sun and dry, drought conditions. It is 12" in height. Japanese sedge has narrow leaves with white margin.
Carex muskingumensis 'Little Midge', dwarf palm sedge
Description: This native plant needs moist soil conditions and is adapted to part shade or shaded conditions. It is 12-15" in height. It is fine textured and compact and is a great native substitute for dwarf bamboo.
Carex oshimensis 'Evergold' sedge
Description: This sedge requires part shade to shaded conditions and needs constant moisture and should not be let to dry out. It is 8-12" in height. This sedge has arching variegated yellow and green leaves and is an excellent groundcover that suppresses weeds.
Carex tenuiculmis 'Cappuccino', New Zealand hair sedge
Description: This sedge does well in sun to part shade in moist soils. It is 12-15" in height. New Zealand hair sedge has chocolate colored foliage and is great as an accent plant or in pots. To avoid winter damage plant this sedge in a protected site.
Greenhouse - Latex Eruptions in Poinsettia
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The following is information on latex eruptions on poinsettias.
Latex Eruptions
This disorder, once referred to as crud does not seem to be as prevalent as it was several years ago on varieties popular then, but occasional cases are reported. Latex, which erupts in the shoot apex when cyathia are forming, dries and seems to physically prevent the continued development of the flower parts. Malformed inflorescences reduce the quality and acceptability of the plants. Latex also can erupt from leaf surfaces, prompting a grower to consider mealybug damage, but damage to the shoot apex is much more serious. High relative humidity and generous amounts of water in the substrate seem to increase the chances for latex eruption, so avoidance of the disorder is geared to the control of these factors.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Latex Eruptions
This disorder, once referred to as crud does not seem to be as prevalent as it was several years ago on varieties popular then, but occasional cases are reported. Latex, which erupts in the shoot apex when cyathia are forming, dries and seems to physically prevent the continued development of the flower parts. Malformed inflorescences reduce the quality and acceptability of the plants. Latex also can erupt from leaf surfaces, prompting a grower to consider mealybug damage, but damage to the shoot apex is much more serious. High relative humidity and generous amounts of water in the substrate seem to increase the chances for latex eruption, so avoidance of the disorder is geared to the control of these factors.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Landscape - Some Athyrium Ferns for Delaware
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The following are some Athyrium ferns recommended for used in Delaware Landscapes. All require part shade to full shade conditionas and moist soils.
Athyrium filix-femina 'Lady In Red', Lady fern
This is a delicate, lacy fern with arching fronds and red stems at maturity. It is a native fern species and is 1-1.5' in height.
Photograph of the Lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina en ssp. angustum 'Lady in Red'). Photo taken at the Mt. Cuba Center where it was identified. Photo by and (c)2007 Derek Ramsey (Ram-Man). the GFDL v.1.2 license applies http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html.
Athyrium 'Ghost', Ghost fern
This fern is a bit taller at 2-2.5' in height. It is silvery-grey with stiffly upright fronds and is a slow spreading groundcover.
Athyrium niponicum 'Regal Red', Japanese painted fern
This Athyrium fern has silvery grey-green fronds and vase-shaped arching foliage. It is very elegant looking. It is 1-1.5' in height.
Athyrium niponicum 'Pictum', Japanese painted fern
This is a slightly larger Japanese painted fern 18-20" in height. It has silvery grey-green fronds with burgundy tones and was a perennial plant of year.
Athyrium 'Ocean's Fury', Crested painted fern
This 3' fern has upright fronds dusted in silver. It forms 2' wide clumps and is useful as a groundcover.
Athyrium filix-femina 'Lady In Red', Lady fern
This is a delicate, lacy fern with arching fronds and red stems at maturity. It is a native fern species and is 1-1.5' in height.
Photograph of the Lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina en ssp. angustum 'Lady in Red'). Photo taken at the Mt. Cuba Center where it was identified. Photo by and (c)2007 Derek Ramsey (Ram-Man). the GFDL v.1.2 license applies http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html.Athyrium 'Ghost', Ghost fern
This fern is a bit taller at 2-2.5' in height. It is silvery-grey with stiffly upright fronds and is a slow spreading groundcover.
Athyrium niponicum 'Regal Red', Japanese painted fern
This Athyrium fern has silvery grey-green fronds and vase-shaped arching foliage. It is very elegant looking. It is 1-1.5' in height.
Athyrium niponicum 'Pictum', Japanese painted fern
This is a slightly larger Japanese painted fern 18-20" in height. It has silvery grey-green fronds with burgundy tones and was a perennial plant of year.
Athyrium 'Ocean's Fury', Crested painted fern
This 3' fern has upright fronds dusted in silver. It forms 2' wide clumps and is useful as a groundcover.
Landscape and Turf - Don't Forget Soil Sampling Before the Ground Freezes
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The following is a reminder to take soil samples this fall if you have not yet done so.
The 2009 growing season is wrapping up, and landscaping chores mostly involve “cleaning up”. While you’re raking leaves, begin thinking about what tasks you can do now that can help you prepare for next season. One job you can do before the ground freezes is to take soil samples for testing. The nutrient levels that are analyzed for a fertility test will not change substantially between now and next March, and so the results and recommendations will allow you to learn what soil amendments you need to optimize soil fertility, plan your work efforts, and make your purchases well in advance.
Testing now also provides the advantage of rapid response time from the soil testing lab, since the sample load is relatively low. Often, landscapers may not think of soil testing until the weather warms up next spring, and they’ll all send their samples at the same time, wanting results in a hurry. However, this is the busiest time for most soil testing labs and turnaround time can be slow. Make soil testing a part of your late fall/winter garden routine to be better prepared and make next spring less hectic. Remember: soil testing helps you use your hard-earned dollars wisely by providing recommendations for the most appropriate fertilizer or amendment. And in addition to providing optimum conditions for your plants, proper fertilization prevents mis-use of nutrients that can cause environmental degradation. Always practice good landscape hygiene, cleaning up fertilizer granules, soil, grass clippings, and other plant detritus from impervious surfaces. Only water should be going into those storm sewers! So get back to those fall clean-up chores. For information on submitting soil samples, contact your County Extension office (Newark, Dover, or Georgetown).
Adapted from "It’s a Good Time to Test Your Soil!" in the November 12, 2009 edition of the
Plant & Pest Advisory, Landscape, Nursery & Turf Edition, A Rutgers Cooperative Extension Publication http://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/plantandpestadvisory/2009/ln111209.pdf
The 2009 growing season is wrapping up, and landscaping chores mostly involve “cleaning up”. While you’re raking leaves, begin thinking about what tasks you can do now that can help you prepare for next season. One job you can do before the ground freezes is to take soil samples for testing. The nutrient levels that are analyzed for a fertility test will not change substantially between now and next March, and so the results and recommendations will allow you to learn what soil amendments you need to optimize soil fertility, plan your work efforts, and make your purchases well in advance.
Testing now also provides the advantage of rapid response time from the soil testing lab, since the sample load is relatively low. Often, landscapers may not think of soil testing until the weather warms up next spring, and they’ll all send their samples at the same time, wanting results in a hurry. However, this is the busiest time for most soil testing labs and turnaround time can be slow. Make soil testing a part of your late fall/winter garden routine to be better prepared and make next spring less hectic. Remember: soil testing helps you use your hard-earned dollars wisely by providing recommendations for the most appropriate fertilizer or amendment. And in addition to providing optimum conditions for your plants, proper fertilization prevents mis-use of nutrients that can cause environmental degradation. Always practice good landscape hygiene, cleaning up fertilizer granules, soil, grass clippings, and other plant detritus from impervious surfaces. Only water should be going into those storm sewers! So get back to those fall clean-up chores. For information on submitting soil samples, contact your County Extension office (Newark, Dover, or Georgetown).
Adapted from "It’s a Good Time to Test Your Soil!" in the November 12, 2009 edition of the
Plant & Pest Advisory, Landscape, Nursery & Turf Edition, A Rutgers Cooperative Extension Publication http://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/plantandpestadvisory/2009/ln111209.pdf
13 Mayıs 2012 Pazar
Greenhouse - Premature Cyathia Abscission in Poinsettia
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The following is information on premature cyathia abscission in poinsettias.
Premature cyathia abscission
The bracts are the conspicuous features of the poinsettia and the true flower parts in the center of the apex (the cyathia) are relatively unnoticed unless they are missing. Varieties differ in their ability to retain cyathia, and 'Gutbier V-10 Amy' was an example of one where the cyathia abscise rather quickly. Often, the cyathia fall off when the plants are still in the greenhouse. However, many of the newer cultivars have improved cyathia retention or there are few cyathia present, which limits the use of cyathia as an indicator of age.
A combination of high night temperatures (70°F or higher) and low-light intensities during the day, have been shown to increase the chances of premature cyathia abscission. Research has shown that such conditions result in an inadequate supply of carbohydrates, and cyathia do not have a high priority for the carbohydrates which are available. Inadequate water also increases the severity of the problem.
Maximum night temperatures of 65°F until early November, followed by temperatures of approximately 60°F, and proper spacing of the plants to allow light penetration into the interior of the bench are recommended procedures to reduce the incidence of cyathia abscission. Water stress should not be allowed to occur.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Premature cyathia abscission
The bracts are the conspicuous features of the poinsettia and the true flower parts in the center of the apex (the cyathia) are relatively unnoticed unless they are missing. Varieties differ in their ability to retain cyathia, and 'Gutbier V-10 Amy' was an example of one where the cyathia abscise rather quickly. Often, the cyathia fall off when the plants are still in the greenhouse. However, many of the newer cultivars have improved cyathia retention or there are few cyathia present, which limits the use of cyathia as an indicator of age.
A combination of high night temperatures (70°F or higher) and low-light intensities during the day, have been shown to increase the chances of premature cyathia abscission. Research has shown that such conditions result in an inadequate supply of carbohydrates, and cyathia do not have a high priority for the carbohydrates which are available. Inadequate water also increases the severity of the problem.
Maximum night temperatures of 65°F until early November, followed by temperatures of approximately 60°F, and proper spacing of the plants to allow light penetration into the interior of the bench are recommended procedures to reduce the incidence of cyathia abscission. Water stress should not be allowed to occur.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Greenhouse - Poor Bract Color or Bract Fading in Poinsettia
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The following is information on poor bract color or bract fading in poinsettias.
Poor bract color/Bract Fading
Varieties, particularly those red bracts, differ in the intensity of the pigmentation, but sometimes the color of the bracts on finished plants does not meet expectations. Bract color might be referred to as faded, though failure of the pigments to develop properly is perhaps more accurate. High night temperatures can be responsible for the lack of color intensity, and explains why night temperatures of approximately 60 to 62°F are recommended from early or mid-November until marketing. Bracts which are produced under crowded conditions, with low light levels, will usually be lighter in color than bracts in the upper canopy of the same plant.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Poor bract color/Bract Fading
Varieties, particularly those red bracts, differ in the intensity of the pigmentation, but sometimes the color of the bracts on finished plants does not meet expectations. Bract color might be referred to as faded, though failure of the pigments to develop properly is perhaps more accurate. High night temperatures can be responsible for the lack of color intensity, and explains why night temperatures of approximately 60 to 62°F are recommended from early or mid-November until marketing. Bracts which are produced under crowded conditions, with low light levels, will usually be lighter in color than bracts in the upper canopy of the same plant.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Greenhouse - Ethylene Damage to Poinsettias
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The following is information on ethylene damage to poinsettia plants.
Ethylene Damage
Ethylene (C2H4) is an odorless, colorless gas which acts as a plant hormone, a growth regulator, and a potentially harmful pollutant of ornamental crops. Poinsettias demonstrate an interesting wilt like appearance (epinasty) after exposure to ethylene gas. Leaf epinasty has been observed when poinsettias were exposed to 10 ppm ethylene. Epinasty can be observed on poinsettia plants when they are kept in their shipping sleeves for a prolonged time. Petioles of poinsettias naturally produce ethylene in response to sleeving. Deformed top growth can also occur during long term exposure to ethylene. Preventing economic losses due to ethylene can be achieved by avoiding exposure to engine exhaust from shipping trucks and other combustion engine vehicles, ripening fruit, senescing plant materials, smoke, welding fumes, and poorly maintained greenhouse furnaces. Annually servicing boilers and burners may reduce or prevent ethylene damage to floricultural crops. Gas leaks resulting from cracked heat exchangers may allow harmful concentrations of ethylene to be released into the greenhouse. Continual expansion and contraction of the metal in the heat exchanger of a furnace can stress the welds resulting in cracks. Leaks at joints and seams can be discovered by painting soapy water on them. Another method of detecting leaks is the placement of smoke bombs or furnace candles within the firebox. Light or smoke penetrating from the interior should cause alarm to growers.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Ethylene Damage
Ethylene (C2H4) is an odorless, colorless gas which acts as a plant hormone, a growth regulator, and a potentially harmful pollutant of ornamental crops. Poinsettias demonstrate an interesting wilt like appearance (epinasty) after exposure to ethylene gas. Leaf epinasty has been observed when poinsettias were exposed to 10 ppm ethylene. Epinasty can be observed on poinsettia plants when they are kept in their shipping sleeves for a prolonged time. Petioles of poinsettias naturally produce ethylene in response to sleeving. Deformed top growth can also occur during long term exposure to ethylene. Preventing economic losses due to ethylene can be achieved by avoiding exposure to engine exhaust from shipping trucks and other combustion engine vehicles, ripening fruit, senescing plant materials, smoke, welding fumes, and poorly maintained greenhouse furnaces. Annually servicing boilers and burners may reduce or prevent ethylene damage to floricultural crops. Gas leaks resulting from cracked heat exchangers may allow harmful concentrations of ethylene to be released into the greenhouse. Continual expansion and contraction of the metal in the heat exchanger of a furnace can stress the welds resulting in cracks. Leaks at joints and seams can be discovered by painting soapy water on them. Another method of detecting leaks is the placement of smoke bombs or furnace candles within the firebox. Light or smoke penetrating from the interior should cause alarm to growers.
Information from the Poinsettia Problem Diagnostic Key on Physiological Disorders from North Carolina State University http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/poinsettia/corrective/a11.html
Landscape and Turf - Don't Forget Soil Sampling Before the Ground Freezes
To contact us Click HERE
The following is a reminder to take soil samples this fall if you have not yet done so.
The 2009 growing season is wrapping up, and landscaping chores mostly involve “cleaning up”. While you’re raking leaves, begin thinking about what tasks you can do now that can help you prepare for next season. One job you can do before the ground freezes is to take soil samples for testing. The nutrient levels that are analyzed for a fertility test will not change substantially between now and next March, and so the results and recommendations will allow you to learn what soil amendments you need to optimize soil fertility, plan your work efforts, and make your purchases well in advance.
Testing now also provides the advantage of rapid response time from the soil testing lab, since the sample load is relatively low. Often, landscapers may not think of soil testing until the weather warms up next spring, and they’ll all send their samples at the same time, wanting results in a hurry. However, this is the busiest time for most soil testing labs and turnaround time can be slow. Make soil testing a part of your late fall/winter garden routine to be better prepared and make next spring less hectic. Remember: soil testing helps you use your hard-earned dollars wisely by providing recommendations for the most appropriate fertilizer or amendment. And in addition to providing optimum conditions for your plants, proper fertilization prevents mis-use of nutrients that can cause environmental degradation. Always practice good landscape hygiene, cleaning up fertilizer granules, soil, grass clippings, and other plant detritus from impervious surfaces. Only water should be going into those storm sewers! So get back to those fall clean-up chores. For information on submitting soil samples, contact your County Extension office (Newark, Dover, or Georgetown).
Adapted from "It’s a Good Time to Test Your Soil!" in the November 12, 2009 edition of the
Plant & Pest Advisory, Landscape, Nursery & Turf Edition, A Rutgers Cooperative Extension Publication http://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/plantandpestadvisory/2009/ln111209.pdf
The 2009 growing season is wrapping up, and landscaping chores mostly involve “cleaning up”. While you’re raking leaves, begin thinking about what tasks you can do now that can help you prepare for next season. One job you can do before the ground freezes is to take soil samples for testing. The nutrient levels that are analyzed for a fertility test will not change substantially between now and next March, and so the results and recommendations will allow you to learn what soil amendments you need to optimize soil fertility, plan your work efforts, and make your purchases well in advance.
Testing now also provides the advantage of rapid response time from the soil testing lab, since the sample load is relatively low. Often, landscapers may not think of soil testing until the weather warms up next spring, and they’ll all send their samples at the same time, wanting results in a hurry. However, this is the busiest time for most soil testing labs and turnaround time can be slow. Make soil testing a part of your late fall/winter garden routine to be better prepared and make next spring less hectic. Remember: soil testing helps you use your hard-earned dollars wisely by providing recommendations for the most appropriate fertilizer or amendment. And in addition to providing optimum conditions for your plants, proper fertilization prevents mis-use of nutrients that can cause environmental degradation. Always practice good landscape hygiene, cleaning up fertilizer granules, soil, grass clippings, and other plant detritus from impervious surfaces. Only water should be going into those storm sewers! So get back to those fall clean-up chores. For information on submitting soil samples, contact your County Extension office (Newark, Dover, or Georgetown).
Adapted from "It’s a Good Time to Test Your Soil!" in the November 12, 2009 edition of the
Plant & Pest Advisory, Landscape, Nursery & Turf Edition, A Rutgers Cooperative Extension Publication http://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/plantandpestadvisory/2009/ln111209.pdf
Landscape - Moisture Extremes and Tree Decline
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Wet years following drought years can cause problems with tree decline. The following is an article on the subject.
Of great concern are moisture extremes (excessive moisture in poorly drained areas as well as mid-season drought). Landscape trees throughout Delaware have been stressed in previous years by prolonged moisture extremes, and it often takes trees five or more years to recover. Not only does moisture stress impact the immediate growth and development of plants, it also predisposes them to other diseases (especially cankers caused by Cytospora, Botryosphaeria, and Nectria) and insect pests (such as borers). Keep this in mind during the next few years when monitoring landscape trees and shrubs for plant health.
Adapted from "Diseases of Ornamental Plants: End of Season Notes" Ann B. Gould, Ph.D., Specialist in Plant Pathology in the November 12, 2009 edition of the
Plant & Pest Advisory, Landscape, Nursery & Turf Edition, A Rutgers Cooperative Extension Publication http://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/plantandpestadvisory/2009/ln111209.pdf
Of great concern are moisture extremes (excessive moisture in poorly drained areas as well as mid-season drought). Landscape trees throughout Delaware have been stressed in previous years by prolonged moisture extremes, and it often takes trees five or more years to recover. Not only does moisture stress impact the immediate growth and development of plants, it also predisposes them to other diseases (especially cankers caused by Cytospora, Botryosphaeria, and Nectria) and insect pests (such as borers). Keep this in mind during the next few years when monitoring landscape trees and shrubs for plant health.
Adapted from "Diseases of Ornamental Plants: End of Season Notes" Ann B. Gould, Ph.D., Specialist in Plant Pathology in the November 12, 2009 edition of the
Plant & Pest Advisory, Landscape, Nursery & Turf Edition, A Rutgers Cooperative Extension Publication http://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/plantandpestadvisory/2009/ln111209.pdf
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